A historic piece of fashion history is hitting the auction block as Sotheby’s prepares to sell the very first Birkin bag ever made—crafted in 1984 for actress and style icon Jane Birkin. The one-of-a-kind prototype will be offered as part of the Paris Fashion Icons auction on July 10, giving collectors the chance to own a pivotal item in luxury fashion lore.
Rare Opportunity to Own a Fashion Legend
While Birkin bags are notoriously difficult to buy directly from Hermès, this original version is entirely in a league of its own. Made specifically for Jane Birkin, it sparked the creation of one of the most recognised and respected handbags in the world. Sotheby’s will showcase the bag in its New York gallery from June 6 to 10 before transporting it—under tight security—to its Paris location for viewing from July 3 to 9.
No Public Price Estimate—But High Expectations
Sotheby’s has chosen not to release a public estimate for the sale, instead offering pricing information privately to interested buyers. Morgane Halimi, global head of handbags and fashion at Sotheby’s, explained the approach:
“It’s a truly one-of-a-kind item, separate from any other Birkin. We’re used to seeing records broken at Birkin auctions, and this is expected to carry as much cultural significance as Diana’s iconic jumper or a legendary NBA jersey.”
An Accidental Invention at 30,000 Feet
The bag’s origin story is almost as iconic as the item itself. On a flight from Paris to London in 1984, Jane Birkin struggled with her worn wicker basket, which spilt its contents—nappies, keys, cigarettes, and more—onto the plane. Her seatmate turned out to be Jean-Louis Dumas, CEO of Hermès.
Striking up a conversation, Birkin explained her need for a bag that was both stylish and practical. The pair began sketching ideas on an airsickness bag. The result: a carryall with the structure of Hermès’ travel bag, the Haut à Courroies, adapted for everyday use. That design became the first Birkin.
What Makes the Original Bag Unique
This particular bag differs from the versions sold in stores today. It has unique dimensions—nearly 14 inches tall and 16 inches deep. Its strap is non-removable, the hardware is brass, and the zipper was sourced from a different manufacturer. Even the feet on the base of the bag have a distinctive shape.
Adding further authenticity, Jane Birkin was known for treating her handbags casually. She decorated her original bag with stickers and charms and used it frequently, never treating it as a delicate item.
From Luxury to Pop Culture Icon
Since its creation, the Birkin bag has evolved into a global symbol of elegance and exclusivity. With limited production and exceptional craftsmanship, it stands apart from fast fashion trends. According to Halimi, owning a Birkin represents entry into an exclusive group.
Its influence in pop culture has also helped elevate its prestige. In 2001, an episode of Sex and the City famously quipped, “It’s not a bag, it’s a Birkin!” —a line that cemented its place in the cultural zeitgeist.
A Piece of History Ready for Its Next Chapter
As this original Birkin heads to auction, collectors and fashion historians alike are watching closely. With its rich story, custom design, and personal connection to Jane Birkin herself, this is more than a handbag—it’s a defining artefact in the evolution of luxury fashion.
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